Testimony

Interview of André Trottier
President of Aventuriers du Monde
Roxton Pond - Canada

André Trottier was a marine pilot on the St. Lawrence river for 36 years before devoting himself to travel, photography and mountaineering. He is currently trying to establish the world record for the oldest person (70 years) to have climbed the Seven Summits, the highest mountain in every continent of the globe. His next goal is the ascent of Everest.

Interviewed February 24, 2010

What is the place of emotions in the decision to undertake an expedition?
To me everything begins with emotions. Personal improvement is a motivation, but it is not central. I undertake expeditions for my pleasure, but also to help others through the support of charities. The decision is both rational and instinctive because I listen to my inner voice.
As part of making important decisions, I ask myself whether I am able to live with it until the end. It takes a total commitment to complete a project and not stopping at the first difficulty. The will to succeed is there, but not at any cost.

Is the desire for self-transcendence rational or emotional?
It is a combination of both. One must suffer to surpass oneself. The more one suffers the closer one is to the goal. The body is lazy, but the spirit is valiant. So once one reach the end of what is believed to be ones limits one  must say "What if I made one more step?" The body will follow the mind.
For Everest I know that I will start to suffer from 7000m. From that moment every step is a further step that makes the difference.

Are emotions allies or enemies in extreme situations?
Emotions are not dangerous, what is dangerous is not to follow the “game plan”. One must define what decision will be taken against a particular obstacle at the bottom of the mountain before starting. During the action facing an obstacle one will not have to think because the decision has already been taken. In extreme situations one loses 50% to 75% of thinking capability.
The ego can be dangerous (to arrive first at the top and let others behind) not the beautiful emotion (altruism, true love).

Would one climb Everest without the power of emotions?
At first it the ego that leads, but it does not lead very far. After reaching one goals it is tempting to stop or find excuses not to go further.
If one does it for oneself, one does not go as far if one do it for someone or something else. Once the personal goals are met one is beginning to do it for others. Emotion comes into account. If I do it for others I must go to the end and I need to come back to tell them that I succeeded thanks to them. You go further than you think when you do it for others. Everything is about what one will do for another in the mountain and in life. Most expeditions are made for a cause. The person who reaches the summit of Everest is the happiest in the world and this pleasure is enhanced if it is for a cause.
The satisfaction of its own needs does not lead to happiness. As they say "Love yourself for me and I will love me for you." Finally it is love that allows us to climb Everest.